Marveled all over the World for its imperial look, the exquisite Gotta Patti Work is the magnificent embroidery artwork enhancing the beauty of a traditional Rajasthani Rajputi Poshak. Also known as ‘Lappe ka kaam’ or Gota-Kinari work, it’s the evergreen accomplice of every royal garment.
Gotta Patti Work is traditionally found on garments like Rajputi poshak, dresses, dupattas, sarees, lehengas, ghagras and even turbans for festive occasions. Women all over the World covet gota work for the majestic look it gives to any garment it touches.
During the glorious Mughal era, gota work was the highlight for almost everything from garments to curtains and from bags to bed sheets. Originating from the textile markets of Surat, Gujarat, the art of appliqué work traveled all the way to Ajmer, Rajasthan. Currently the cities of Jaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, Udaipur and Kota are the center of gota patti work in India.
In Jaipur- the land of Mahal and Maharajas is a prevalent form of embroidery cherished by the royalty. Different designs and textures are created by hemming a woven golden fabric into a silk or satin fabric. These designs are often used to embellish the edge or the border of the garment. Similar to meenakari jewelry, the colored silk would be immersed in different patterns depicting nature on a gold cloth encased in wires of silver and gold.
In earlier times, people used real gold and silver to beautify the silk. However, due to high-cost and practical reasons the gold and silver has been replaced with synthetic fibers today. Instead, the design is coated with the gold and silver element.
The first of step of weaving gota patti work onto fabric begins with ‘chapaayi’ in which the desired pattern is printed onto the fabric. For the next step, ‘Khaat’ or a wooden frame is set up to tie the fabric using thick cords. A tracing paper with a perforated design is then placed on the cloth. Using chalk powder, the design is then printed onto the fabric.
Famous for its smooth texture and dazzling appeal, the most common fabrics used for gota work are georgettes, chiffon, silk, and Bandhini. Either in gold or silver, gota patti work often includes a ribbon which is used to create the compelling designs and motifs prior to getting stitched onto the fabric. Depending on the width of the design, the size of the ribbon can be thick or thin as per the design.
On completing the gota work, the patti or the edge is then joined in the tapestry. In the majority of the designs, the patti is embroidered with different shapes of leaves. This process is called ‘takaayi’, which is basically the cutting and folding of the patti to create elegant motifs.
In the last step, the fabric is tailored into the garment, this process is known as ‘silaayi’. Adding to the beauty, dangling charms, buttons and borders are added to the garment.
Over the years, the gotta patti work has evolved to give finer shapes with a lot more intricate designs and details of sequins and semi- precious stones for embellishment.
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